Some traditional style rules exist for a reason. For instance: good fit is essential, and the worlds of suits and ties should rarely intersect with t-shirts and sneakers beyond the domain of Miami Vice.
Unfortunately, many menswear rules have been dictated and enforced by an arbitrary sense of formality rooted in the individuality-crushing business world of the 1950s that sought uniformity rather than creativity.
Thus, it’s important to explore and reevaluate these style norms and bust some of the stuffier rules that have no business informing men’s style in 2018.
Myth: Only skinny guys can wear a double-breasted suit.
Busted: The double-breasted suit has been creeping back into fashion this decade, accelerated by the agents of Kingsman: The Secret Service. The full wrap of the double-breasted cut just means that the jacket should be well-tailored to prevent a larger-framed man from looking like the Hulk (or Chris Farley) … but you wouldn’t wear anything that wasn’t well-tailored anyway, right?
Myth: Button-down collars are too informal to wear with a suit and tie.
Busted: You should determine what shirt collar is most flattering and comfortable for you. Cary Grant, certainly no style slouch, had a habit of wearing shirts that sported the incongruous combination of button-down collars and French cuffs, but Grant knew what worked for his physique and his preferences, and who are we to argue with Cary Grant?
This anti-button-down collar sentiment likely stems from the mid-century backlash against the increasing influence of American Ivy League fashions like button-down collared shirts and slip-on loafers in business wear.
Myth: Boots are not professional to wear with a suit and tie.
Busted: You probably shouldn’t be breaking out your Red Wings to wear with a business suit, but if you have a pair of leather chukka boots or Chelsea boots, feel free! These dressier boots have a timeless and traditional pedigree that dates back to the early 20th century before the lower lace-up oxfords and derby shoes became standard business footwear. After all, where do you think the phrase “suited and booted” originated?
Myth: Tie width should be relative to a man’s frame.
Busted: Super wide ties make men of any size look more like clowns than anything. We recommend a 2.5″ tie for most, up to a max of 3″. The narrower width can make the surrounding torso look bigger by comparison, but a larger framed man need only to search for a slim tie with some degree of shape rather than a super-skinny straight column-like tie.
Read more about the 8 essential ties for any (and all) occasions.
Myth: You should not wear jeans with a tie.
Busted: If you’re not in a professional business environment, there’s no reason not to explore with balancing class and comfort for a first date, coffee with an old friend, or a spruced-up approach to casual Friday in your creative office. The trick to not looking like you stepped off the set of a ‘90s sitcom is to incorporate elements that work together, dressing down the tie with casual knit neckwear and dressing up the jeans by wearing a slim, dark pair.
Myth: Dive watches are too sporty to be worn with a suit.
Busted: Two words: James Bond. (Not that 007 is an infallible source of sartorial wisdom.) While the sporty and functional origins of dive watches may send purists into a tizzy, the classic aesthetic of a timepiece like the Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, or their more affordable cousins from Invicta, Orient, and Seiko can’t be denied.
Myth: Your socks must match your trousers.
Busted: Like the concept of matching your belt to your shoes, it’s well-intentioned because it’s safe, but it’s hardly a necessary rule. After all, argyle socks are a great way to add a pop of fun into your suit… but a matching pair of argyle pants would get you laughed out of most settings outside of John Daly’s golf foursome. Black socks are also safe… but boring. Find a color present on your shirt or tie and incorporate it into your socks for an interesting and well-coordinated look.
Myth: You must own a pair of black shoes.
Busted: Black shoes certainly come in handy, but aside from tuxedoes (infrequently worn) or black suits (which really shouldn’t be worn), there’s little that black shoes can do that a more interesting pair of brown shoes can’t do better.
Myth: You really don’t need to own a black suit.
Bust- actually, never mind, we’re still pretty sure about this rule.